Too good of a chapter for me not to comment on, so here we go.
Consider Bartelomeo's demeanor in this chapter to be mine, I was just like a giddy schoolgirl. Oda's style was off the charts this chapter: what we have in this boiling chaotic stew is fluid chaos, a variety of expressions, and different situations being transitioned into to perk the reader's eye that contrast with what came before to cause a kind of vertigo. This chapter seems to be the ultimate culmination of Oda's goofy style, which can put a hardened badass into the clown car and have him come out (metaphorically) with round shiny clown shoes and makeup. That's what happened to Bart here. I mean sure you can predict the general structure of a One Piece arc – like you can predict the general structure of a lot of things so what use is saying that, really? -- but the small events therein that fill in the structure? Good luck.
Things like Luffy spitting on his hands to stop a sword make One Piece have a more earthy feel to it than empty stories where he could've used whatever intangible ability to stop the sword. It says a lot that Oda can still keep those down home sensibilities in a series with so many wild fantasy elements. Keeping with that goofiness, only in One Piece would you see the main character have a deathly serious conversation with the likely main villain on a snail phone, all the while he sates you and yet keeps you yearning for more with things like seeing the progress of Blackbeard's beard.
But don't just let the character building & clashing star in this chapter. The variety of locations we visited also played a part in providing a feast for the eyes. Things take a trademark breakneck speed turn for the grim near the end, giving this chapter just so many different shades to it.
Very enjoyable.