I mean the pacing is wonky, the fights are all over the place, there's a ton of missed potential going on, the villains need fleshing out, Straw Hats don't get consistent focus and sometimes feel like guests in a Wano manga, the art is claustrophobic, there's way too many unnecessary reaction panels, and I've gotten burnt out a couple times now (first time in the prison, second time later in the raid).
That said it fixes some things Dressrosa did poorly. Dressrosa felt really disjointed all around. Wano's story structure has been more clear, flashbacks are largely consolidated into a larger flashback (that unexpectedly went into Roger and Whitebeard lore, making it feel more relevant), the local stuff is fitting into the larger worldbuilding very meaningfully, the various factions intermingling is more natural, the secondary characters have their motives and actions better executed, and the stakes feel more impactful. That said, Dressrosa has better local flavor, the civilians aren't awful, and the Doffy family was more entertaining. Those aren't as big as deals though.
Whole Cake is different and is just better in most ways compared to Dressrosa and Wano. Charlottes and BMP were good villains and it officially salvaged Sanji's character for me. He went from my original fav SH to worst back to one of my favs. I didn't think it was possible. I think Wano continued his character arc nicely (although this forum won't have it, tsk).
And overall I just like how the story has progressed to such a larger scale. Lots of decades long mysteries are coming together, payoff is right around the corner. Luffy is rising to the TOPPEST top. I know people don't like that the focus isn't as strong on the SHs anymore, but I doubt Oda planned 25+ years worth of story for each individual crewmate to tell. I enjoy it now as viewing the soon-to-be pirate king's crew's journey, like how we saw a glimpse of Roger's journey in the flashback. One day the SHs will be the ones to reach Laugh Tale and I'm more excited than ever for it.
(Enies Lobby baby btw)